How to paint with lime paint: a step-by-step guide

Painting with lime paint differs from painting with ordinary paint in three ways: the wall must be thoroughly dampened with water before painting, it should not be primed "just in case", and successive coats are applied thinly, every 4–6 hours. Below is a complete step-by-step guide: from checking the surface, through tools, to the most common mistakes.

Before you start: is your wall suitable for lime?

Lime bonds with the surface rather than just sitting on it. So the most important question is: what is the wall made of?

• Good: lime and cement-lime plasters, concrete, brick, primed plasterboard.
• Needs preparation: walls previously painted with latex or acrylic paint, non-absorbent surfaces. An airtight coating will not let the lime bond properly.
• A simple absorbency test: spray part of the wall with water. If the water soaks in quickly and the wall darkens, the surface is absorbent. If the water runs off in drops, the wall is sealed and needs preparing.

Not sure? Call before you buy: +48 605 642 777. Better to ask than to repaint.

What do you need?

• lime paint, e.g. Muro Sano (opaque) or Nebbia glaze (semi-transparent, for tinting),
• a block brush (gives the classic, lively lime effect) or a roller,
• a sprayer or brush for dampening the wall, and clean water,
• a mixer or a sturdy stick for stirring,
• masking tape and plastic sheeting to protect floors and joinery,
• gloves and safety goggles, because wet lime is caustic.

How much paint should you buy?

As a guide, 1 kg per 4–5 m² for one coat on a smooth wall and 1 kg per 1.5–2 m² on coarse-grained plaster. Plan for two coats. Example: a smooth 20 m² wall × 2 coats = 40 m², i.e. about 8–10 kg of paint. This is a range, not a guarantee, because consumption depends on the absorbency of the wall and the painter's hand.

How to paint with lime paint: step by step

1. Protect the room. Tape off skirting boards, sockets and window frames, and lay down plastic sheeting. Lime leaves marks on wood and stone.
2. Clean the wall. Remove dust, cobwebs and loose fragments. Fill any gaps with a mineral material.
3. Don't prime unless necessary. Do not use any primers on mineral surfaces without consulting us. Many of them seal the pores of the wall and prevent the lime from bonding. Exception: plasterboard and surfaces that genuinely require it.
4. Thoroughly dampen the wall with water. This is the most important step. On most surfaces, clean tap water is enough. A damp surface does not "drink" the water from the paint, so the lime has time to bond.
5. Mix the paint. Muro Sano and Nebbia are thixotropic, meaning they thicken at rest and thin when mixed. Simply stir the contents of the bucket vigorously. If you prefer a thinner consistency, add a little water and mix thoroughly.
6. Apply the first, thin coat. With a block brush, work in short strokes in different directions (criss-cross). With a roller, spread evenly. Paint from corner to corner without stopping in the middle of the wall, so as not to leave visible joins.
7. Wait 4–6 hours. The surface should dry, but you do not need to wait for it to harden fully.
8. Lightly dampen the wall and apply the second coat. This coat builds the final effect and coverage.
9. Give the lime time. Full hardening (carbonation) takes several days to a couple of weeks. During this time the colour continues to lighten and even out.

Block brush or roller?

A block brush is a wide brush that has been used to paint with lime for centuries. It leaves subtle traces of movement and gives a chromatic, "cloudy" effect: a wall that changes with the light. A roller gives a calmer, more uniform surface and is faster on large areas. Many people combine both methods: a roller for the first coat, a block brush for the second.

How to achieve a washed effect?

For a Mediterranean washed effect, Nebbia glaze works best. It is semi-transparent, so each coat builds depth, and you control the intensity of the colour with the amount of pigment. Every brush stroke remains visible in the final effect, so before you start on the actual wall, practise the movement on a piece of board. You will find colours and inspiration on the lime colours page.

The most common mistakes when painting with lime

• Painting on a dry wall: the surface sucks out the water, the lime does not bond and the coating may dust.
• A coat that is too thick: lime likes thin coats. A thick coat can crack.
• Primer "just in case": an airtight primer cuts the lime off from the surface.
• Painting in full sun, next to a radiator or in a draught: drying too quickly interferes with bonding.
• Judging the colour while wet: wet paint is darker. You will see the final shade once it is dry, so always do a test patch.
• Stopping halfway across a wall: a visible join line remains. Finish the wall at a corner.

Frequently asked questions

How many coats of lime paint should I apply?

Usually two. With dark colours or very uneven surface absorbency, a third may be needed.

How long before I can apply the second coat?

Usually after 4–6 hours, once the surface has dried. Dampen it lightly before applying.

Do I need to prime the wall before lime paint?

On mineral plasters usually not; thorough dampening with water is enough. Primer is used on plasterboard and non-absorbent surfaces. Please consult us on the choice of primer.

What should I thin lime paint with?

Clean water. Add it gradually and mix thoroughly.

Can I paint it myself, without a professional?

Yes. Lime paint is more forgiving than it seems, and slight irregularity is part of its charm. Start with a less visible wall to get into the rhythm.

You can read more about the paint itself, its advantages and limitations, in our article lime paint (limewash): what it is. To see how lime works in practice, visit the art of application page.

Stuck halfway? Call us: +48 605 642 777. Advice is free.